Dior's iconic saddle bag, first presented in 2000 and brought back for the house's autumn 2018 presentation, has become a cultural icon and is sold in Dior boutiques worldwide. During John Galliano's tenure at Dior, the bag made its debut in the Spring 2000 collection.

Perhaps one of the earliest items to earn the term "ugly-chic," the Dior Saddle bag, with its saddle form, countless color, version options, short straps, and snug fit under the arm, became an instant hit. Celebrities like Beyoncé and Paris Hilton donned the accessory helping skyrocket its popularity.

Related: Fans Can't Get Enough Of Lily Allen's Dior Handbag

The Evolution Of The Dior Saddle Bag

John Galliano, the house's mastermind and creative director, started working for Dior in 1996. Galliano, the first British designer to head the French couture business, began Dior's innovative emphasis on accessories during his tenure. It wasn't until the Spring Summer 2000 runway show that the Saddle Bag, an idea conceived by Galliano, made its debut. Timed to perfection with the advent of Prada's 'ugly chic' aesthetic, the soon-to-be-iconic bag caught attention with its asymmetrical, angular, and cool structural form.

In creating their equestrian silhouette, Saddle Bags looked to the arcs of a jockey's seat. Galliano allegedly found creative inspiration in renowned fashion photographer Helmet Newton's Saddle I, Paris, 1976. The photo, which is black and white, depicts a sensual and striking image of a woman wearing a jockey's saddle. Despite its widespread circulation among fashion industry insiders, there has never been any confirmation of the story from Galliano himself.

Galliano created twelve versions of the Saddle Bag to celebrate his ten years with Dior. Each version reflected the countries that had inspired him over the decade: China, the United States, Argentina, Mexico, England, Russia, Spain, Morocco, Egypt, France, India, and Japan. Even if the twelve saddlebags weren't entirely practical, they are a testament to Galliano's artistic inventiveness, thanks to their attention to detail and expert craftsmanship.

A sartorial staple of the late early '00s, Dior's Saddle bag was carried by every 'It' girl imaginable, from fictional Carrie Bradshaw to real-life Paris Hilton. In the third episode of Sex and the City's fifth season, Carrie Bradshaw carries a Saddle Bag while on her way to a second date with Aidan. Quickly, the Saddle became the "it bag" of popular culture. As a result of the popularity of this bag, sales of Dior accessories increased by 60% by the end of 2001.

However, not everything was roses for the Saddle; by 2007, everyone had the Y2K "it bag," and the Saddle's once-exclusive appeal had eroded. The bag's sudden popularity ended its life quickly, like that of a one-hit-wonder, and the House of Dior was obliged to reduce output as demand collapsed. Seven years later, Beyoncè gave the bag a new lease on life when she was spotted in New York City carrying the once-upon-a-time "it bag."

She single-handedly reintroduced the term "Saddle Bag" to the worldwide fashion language and revived the accessory's once-flourishing popularity. Dior reintroduced the Saddle Bag as demand skyrocketed on the secondary market for pre-owned designer goods and consumers begged the company to do so.

In its fall/winter 2018 collection, Dior showed off a variety of the bags in its characteristic Dior logo print, plain black leather, and patchwork and beaded designs reminiscent of the 1970s. Every single one of them had a shiny gold 'D' pendant. With numerous fashion bloggers, influencers, and models like Elsa Hosk and Bella Hadid sporting the Dior saddle bag, Dior's decision to bring it back highlighted the influencer's role in shaping trends prompting shoppers to purchase items in droves from retailers like Vestiaire Collective.

Related: Jennifer Lawrence Looks Stunning In The New Dior Fall 2020 Campaign

Dior's Saddle Bag Is A Classic That's Here To Stay

Kim Jones recruited the world-famous rapper Travis Scott as a collaborator for Dior's 2022 summer collection, Cactus Jack Dior. Why Travis Scott? Christian Dior presented his CD Capsule collection for the first time in Texas in 1947, which happens to be Travis Scott's native state.

As a result, the collection features a muted color scheme of browns and grays, as if they had been bleached by the Texas sun. Scott's original take on the Saddle Bag was the show-stopper. The steel horseshoe-shaped handle is one of the saddle's distinguishing features, and both the brown and black color schemes and the Western-inspired design of the saddle pay homage to classic Texas saddlery.

The current rendition of the coveted accessory, designed by Kim Jones, is a nod to Dior's first fashion presentation in 1947 and is part of the CD Capsule Collection. The Dior Saddle Bag in Dior Gray, the designer's favorite color, features a grained leather saddle that honors the past and present union.

Over the years, the Saddle Bag has been reinterpreted by designers as varied as Galliano and rapper Travis Scott. The bag has graduated from the realm of the merely fashionable to that of the enduringly iconic. Today, we can see a resurrection of a vintage Galliano shoulder bag, a new release or limited edition work of art on the Dior runway, or on the shoulders of influencers on Instagram.